Sunday, 6 July 2008
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| Re: Anybody see "Hancock" yet? Lloyd Olson 23:02:32 |
| | Ignore the reviews. Not the greatest Will Smith movie of all time, but
better than the reviews. Once won't hurt you, and you may enjoy it. LTG 
<Twp1976@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ac3203d3-383d-49af-a5d6-a27d7bb43e8e@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
It really looks good to me, but reviews are so-so. I fear it can't decide if it's comedy or action, and instead of a mix, it will be funny for 45 minutes then totally serious for 45 minutes. Anybody? T
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| Re: Changing out ropelight Gregg 22:29:53 |
| | In article
<005da10e-1b44-4615-9eb3-dfe9abcc4e45@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
MarcG <marcag@gmail.com> wrote:
Well its a cloudy, rainy day here, figure I'll finally change out the ropelight in sc. Is this going to be as much work as it looks? Any tricks to this? Looks like I have to remove the entire token and board assembly.... any tips apperciated Marc G
I did mine years ago and I don't remember taking the entire board off.
I also don't remember it being a huge deal to change either. Then again
I am old and my memory isn't what it was.........................Umm
what was the question again?
--
Gregg in Baltimore
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| FA: IPB Creature HOLOGRAM (only) NEW LINK! Garavaml 22:25:06 |
| | HI Everyone -- sorry for the repost. The EBAY Bastards pulled my auction
because I had a link to pinbits.com in it. Go figure... Sooo here we go
again. Check my feedback and bid with confidence. No funny business
here -- just Ebay being Ebay I suppose.
Again, sorry for the multiple postings.
If anyone is looking - Here is your chance at an IPB Creature hologram....
http://tinyurl.com/5ugbv5
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150267781427
OR
EBAY #150267781427
Thanks for looking.
MIKE
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| Update: Re: WPC-95 language will not change from spanish Kevin L'Heureux 22:06:19 |
| | On 2008-07-04 05:17:50 -0700, "Coin-Op Cauldron (Clive)"
<Clivejonesen@netscape.net> said:
Kevin L'Heureux wrote: I need some help here. All of the sudden the language on my wpc-95 pin is set to espanol and when I change it to the factory default (english) it immediately goes back to spanish wether or not I let the adjustment change time out or I press the start button to accept the change. I have used two different version rom chips and they both do the same I checked the dip switches on the cpu board and they are all to the right position just as they are on other games I own. Anyone hd this problem before? Hi Kevin. Run the DIP switch test and check the test results against the actual switch settings. The problem could be a bad switch, bad switch logic or the ASIC may require reseating (remove the ASIC very carefully and ensure you are grounded). Clive -- The Coin-Op Cauldron -- 103 Armistead lane Easley, SC 29642 (864)238-1707
OK. Did some more testing and it looks like I have fixed the problem. I
went ahead and tried a new ASIC chip, cleaned the contacts in the
housing, and the problem was still there. I then replaced the security
chip which didn't help either. At that point I decided to try a new cpu
board and once again that did not help so I swapped the other one back
in and when I was re-installing the board I decided to test it with the
switches disconnected from the cpu and one at a time try putting them
back. Sure enough as long as the top left connector harness was
unplugged it would go into english! I checked for ground faults in the
harness and found none so I traced the harness back through the cabinet
and to the coin door interface board. I plugged in all the connectors
at the cpu and unplugged the harness at the interface board and all was
good so I knew there was no problem in the head. I fiddled with the
connector and reseated it and now it works perfectly. I don't know what
happened since nothing was touched but apparently the connector just
has some issue and I guess it was not seated all the way.
It was a long proccess for an easy fix but at least it's done!
Thanks to Clive, John jr. and all of the non-peanut-gallery guys for the help.
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| Re: Things to know before installin the new EATPM platics Cliffy 21:28:39 |
| | Ack. They look great except they really do need to use florescent inks.
Certain games use real florescent colors and it would be a shame not
have them light up under black light. I won't even try to speak to how
hard or expensive it is, I have no idea at all. Someone tried to pass
off Creature back board decals without using florescent inks a while
back (NOT CPR) and they looked absolutely dull and out of place. Like
you I stayed with my wrinkled original instead.
mytimac wrote:
I have discovered a few things while installing the new CPR EATPM platics. Apparently I am the first, or at least first to share. 2 plastics not included in set. Just guards, nothing major. The neon green is not neon green. I mentioned this to CPR about this, and as I figured, the neon green just isn't possiible to duplicate with the printing method they are using. Not a huge deal except for one piece. I left my original because I didn't like the other green at all. (this part others may not agree, but it is MY opinion) All the parts that are atteched to L brackets with rivets require something like 5/32 diameter size rivets and not 1/8 like the originals. The holes in the pieces are just too large for 1/8 diameter rivet because the head of the rivets i have are just about smaller than the hole. If you compare old to new you see the difference. ( I have their WCS set and the rivet holes for that are perfect) One piece that doesn't use a L bracket is fine. The cover that goes over the deadhead targets has a plastic guard that attaches by rivets and that has the correct diameter holes. The part with the artwork is a little large but you can back that with the washer. I ended up making all new L brackets and using 5/32 size rivets. This took a lot more work than I anticipated. Wish someone had gone before me and had all the best answers. I have limited tools in my 2 bedroom apartment. Took some trial and error. Now, please no one take this as bashing and get their panties in a bind. There always seems to be someone who gets all upset. I will continue to buy their products and I am glad someone is making these parts. I was missing a few plastics and needed this set bad. I also found out that my old blob piece was a repro someone else had made. It didn't have the gradient and also a had bad green. Dan
--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
Home of the world's finest pinball protectors
http://www.passionforpinball.com
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| Re: Which is worse: Unfinished software, Mechanical Failures, or both? TheKorn 21:15:56 |
| | Isn't that a bit like asking which is *the best* venereal disease to have?
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the
web or on DVD?
http://www.webwidevideo.com/
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| |  1 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Chicago Coin/Stern EM Flippers Seymour-Shabow@Excite.Com 20:57:13 |
| | Max wrote:
Hello everyone, I have several games made by Stern and Chicago Coin that desperately need a flipper rebuild. However, there zero flipper kits available. The flippers are way beyond normal cleaning (Heck, they're even beyond extra cleaning). They just need to be replaced. What is the best solution to this problem? Can I replace them with another "brand" or flipper parts, or are there kits available for these games that I am not aware of... Thanks, Max
Check with Pinball Resource, and google the group for this topic a
couple months ago - the EM frame should be similar to the first
generation SS sterns, the plunger is 2 1/8" long, you can get those from
marco, the links you can make/get the plastic ones for the later
flippers to put in, the coil stops are available, but you can also swipe
ones from the early stern pop bumper/sling assemblies (the copper
colored ones).
The general consensus was that most of the parts are available but you
have to mix n match, new and old.
-scott CARGPB#29
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| FA: IPB Creature HOLOGRAM (only) Garavaml 20:49:17 |
| | Happy 4th Everyone!
If anyone is looking - Here is your chance at an IPB Creature hologram....
http://tinyurl.com/6zns8f
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150267140903
OR
EBAY #150267140903
Thanks for looking.
MIKE
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Small bubble in playfield art issue. John Wart 19:23:57 |
| | Only way to 'fix' that would be to have the playfield sanded, insert artwork
repaired and reclearcoated, the insert is ghosting - the layer with the
artwork has seperated from the plastic insert pressed into the playfield.
Those are not 'decals', that artwork is screened directly on top of the
playfield and inserts before the whole works is diamondplated.
<DPsx7@aol.com> wrote in message
news:0ab13808-bc93-4975-a68e-5db9fc99729b@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
Hey all. I got a TZ a few months ago from Ebay, I was one of the fortunate ones because it was in nice shape for the price and I was expecting to work on it a little anyway. Strangely I liked repairing it, it's my first machine and figuring everything out was a cool learning experience. Anyway enough of that, here's what I need help with. While I was cleaning the machine some time ago I found some raised spots on the PF. Not knowing about mylar or decals a few peeled off fine except one. Now I'm left with a small discolored spot between the insert and artwork. It looks fine when the game is on because the insert turns it all red. I don't think I want to peel it off fully because it seems the artwork is faded underneath. (You can almost make it out from the pic, the letters on the door locks don't match perfectly.) Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix this? It's only cosmetic but the flaw sits right in front of you and should I ever want to sell it this will have to be fixed. The 2 door locks are the only ones with decals and save for 2 very small worn areas (hidden by the bumpers and rocket kicker) the rest is in great shape. Thanks.
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| Does anyone actually see my posts? James Sweet 19:16:48 |
| |
I'm just curious since I don't recall ever getting a reply on here.
Perhaps it's just a matter of nobody knowing the answer, but then again
perhaps my posts are getting filtered by primitive spam filtering?
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| | 5 answers | Add comment |
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| PHOF two years later - did I miss the memo? Don Del Grande 18:52:41 |
| | I visited the PHOF (I assume it's still called that) last week for the
first time since August 2006, and it was almost a completely different
place; almost all of the old EMs have been replaced with older SSs
(speaking of which, is it THAT hard to find, say, a Xenon in decent
shape?), and either I don't know as much about video games as I
thought, or somebody decided "only older 8-bit video games will be
allowed" wasn't bringing in enough money (or is Gauntlet Legends
really an 8-bit machine?).
It's not a "dealbreaker" - I'll definitely return the next time I'm in
Vegas, even if the only machines there are the new ones - but one of
the things I liked about PHOF was the chance to play a lot of the
machines from my youth.
-- Don
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| Re: Addams Family troubleshooting Cody Chunn 16:58:19 |
| | Sounds like you are getting phantom switch closures. Take the balls out of
the game and go into switch test and start checking the outlanes and all
other switches to find out what row or column you are having problems with.
--
-cody
<reffner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:05b35954-f222-4e6e-b046-bb980a9f77d2@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Recently my Addams Family started showing an abnormal issue. When a ball drains, you hear the tilt warning "Careful" and if you are playing 1 player, the machine adds player two, if there are two players, the machine adds player three, etc. Occasionally the machine just reverts back to restarting four new players all with zero scores in the middle of a game. Any ideas where to start troubleshooting? Thanks, Reffner
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| Re: Capcom Breakshot Cody Chunn 16:55:11 |
| | Turn the game off. Unlock the backbox and lift out the glass. Reach over the
speaker panel moulding and slide the two L brackets toward center of game
(may be very sticky!). Lay the speaker panel flat. The rectangular board
directly behind it is the switch board. Give a press on all the connectors,
especially the gray one that goes up to the CPU (this one may go on to the
display too). Give those ends a touch as well. Power up and retest switch in
Diags.
If no go, test the switch like theKorn suggests.
If no go, test continuity of wires from switch board to switch. Capcoms are
well-known for having tight wire pulls that snap off at switches, sometimes
breaking the whole switch lug off.
Let us know what you find...
--
-cody
<jackblotto@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e22f0c73-c561-442a-8c76-b2dbd71f4c0d@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
The Bonus Saucer switch is not working. Could be the switch but I can't seem to find any vendors who carry it, Marco, BA, IPB, PBR, etc. It's part SW00118 if someone has one they could sell me. Also is there an easy way to test a switch beyond just using the diags which say it's failing? I have some other similar switches, couldn't I just replace this one with one of those just to hand-test the switch to ensure it's the switch and not something on a board? Seems like pinball 101 I know, but it's early in the am and I'm just plan tired, though I may have the same question if I was wide-awake too ... Have had very few switches have issue and normally just needed adjusting with just a few replacements luckily. Just trying to track this to the switch or a board. I can hear the switch *engage* when I push the wire connector down. Thanks, David
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| Re: TECH: Capcom Breakshot TheKorn 16:38:43 |
| | jackblotto@yahoo.com wrote in news:e22f0c73-c561-442a-8c76-b2dbd71f4c0d@
25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com:
The Bonus Saucer switch is not working. Could be the switch but I can't seem to find any vendors who carry it, Marco, BA, IPB, PBR, etc. It's part SW00118 if someone has one they could sell me. Also is there an easy way to test a switch beyond just using the diags which say it's failing? I have some other similar switches, couldn't I just replace this one with one of those just to hand-test the switch to ensure it's the switch and not something on a board? Seems like pinball 101 I know, but it's early in the am and I'm just plan tired, though I may have the same question if I was wide-awake too ... Have had very few switches have issue and normally just needed adjusting with just a few replacements luckily. Just trying to track this to the switch or a board. I can hear the switch *engage* when I push the wire connector down.
Put your meter on continuity, then connect the probes to the switch's
lughs. No beep when pressed = bad switch.
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the
web or on DVD?
http://www.webwidevideo.com/
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| Re: Man I'm pissed at my Gottlieb TheKorn 16:17:39 |
| | thebman80@yahoo.com wrote in news:9d9bbb05-6546-41be-bf10-06b430807f64
@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:
I just got my rebuild kit installed it in my power supply for my Amazing Spiderman and I find out after I power up the power brick in the bottom of the game that both of my Transformers I bought off eBay a while back are trash what a way to waste like $100. None of the voltages are even close to being right at all now I'll have to figure out what to do next as far as getting 2 new transformers. Incase anyone was wondering the voltages were as follows the large transformer C-18552 is putting out 17.5 volts for the 25v 19.5V for the 8v and 3v for the 6 volt post. The small TF B-19548 Is putting out for the 60V posts 8 48V and 9 107V not even close at all on 9. 3 and 7 the 12v posts are putting out 6.8V 16 and 17 are the 10V and are putting out 7.5V. 15 the 3V post is putting out 17V and so on nothing is a correct voltage at all.
I'm just finishing up ripping out the 220V bottom panel out of my haunted
house. You'd need to run it through a 110/220V step-up transformer, but
the voltages are all almost correct.
Note that it *needs* either a new bridge or a new cap on the +12V line.
When I powered it up with *my* step up transformer, the +12 was very slow
to come up to +12, and once the PS board was plugged in it immedately
would plunge down to about +5 or so. So I'm *pretty* sure either a cap
or a bridge on the +12 line is bad. But since I have a whole 110 bottom
panel I could swap in, I didn't bother diagnosing any further after that.
;)
It'd be better than nothing, that's for sure. Where are you located?
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the
web or on DVD?
http://www.webwidevideo.com/
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: What is a Whitewater worth Rich 15:58:27 |
| | If you change your mind and want to sell it, this one is on my list. I am
in the Chicago burbs.
"Marksf1" <marksf1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a2c7720f-c1c5-406a-9461-8f589987b444@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On May 3, 3:56 pm, Marksf1 <mark...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Any ideas on what my whitewater is worth. I am thinking about selling it to fund another game but want to see what they are going for to see if it makes sense to sell or go a different route. Here are some pics.
OK - you guys talked me into keeping it.....
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| So76 Extra Ball Question Danny 11:45:01 |
| | I'm restoring a Gottlieb Spirt of 76 and I have most things working. When I
get an Extra Ball, the game stays on the same player and serves up the ball,
but the A-B-C-D-E and the drop targets do not reset. Before I go try and
fix this, is this the way the game is supposed to work?
Thanks,
Danny
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| FS: A few SAD1024 chips Chipbroker 11:28:21 |
| | Subject tells it all.
I was able to find a few of these extremely rare Analog Delay Line chip's
I have 7 of them available...
Price 100 euro each (no not dollar)....incl. worldwide shipping.
No laughing please, this is a really good price.
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| | 2 answer | Add comment |
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| Tech EM Pyramid Tony Holdgate 09:23:40 |
| | OK Start sequence is working - machine resets and starts at Ball 1 Player
one.
With one player selected:
On ball drain the player unit skips 5 steps and is on Player2 Ball3. It
jumps 5 steps on the end of every ball. It should be moving 2 steps
With two players selected:
Machine advances correctly through all balls but does not end game on Player
2 ball 5.
One both one and 2 player the 1st ball relay is stuck on
Any suggestions welcome
Tony
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| Re: TECH HELP: Judge Dredd won't power on Lloyd Olson 09:20:10 |
| | Unplug the game, with your meter, check coninuity of the plug wires to the
on and off switch, you may just have a connector off along the way. The game
is plugged in ?
All good, then plug it in, turn it on, and very carefully start checking to
see if power is getting to the transformer, to the boards. This is AC and
some high current. LTG
<cjfinch@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3b602f77-247d-4f71-bc45-69d2cac9de45@w7g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
I bought this machine two days ago and now I can't get it to even power on  I'm a pinball newbie so I really don't know what to look for but based strictly on appearance the game seemed to be in very good shape. I brought it home, powered it on and it worked perfectly for about 4-5 hours. I left the house for a couple hours, came back and played a game, and noticed that some of the displays on the DMD were showing up as garbage. Other than that the system appeared to be working well. I decided to turn it off and back on again to see if that would clear things up. After pressing power the system looked like it was about to come up and then after about a second or two it just turned off. I flipped the switch again and some lights flashed for about a half a second. One more try and ... nothing. Now every time I try to turn the game on I get absolutely nothing, not a sound, not a light, nothing. So I did a little research and decided to change out the Line fuse located on the black box on the inside of the machine just above the power switch. First thing I noticed is that the fuse that was currently in place was a 15 amp fuse. Well the manual states that this is supposed to be an 8 amp fuse. I'm not electrical expert by any means but that doesn't seem good to me. Anyhow I went down to Radio Shack and picked up a new fuse (NOT 15 amp) and replaced the existing one. Same thing, absolutely nothing. I was really optimistic that I would at least see the machine try to power on but I'm getting nothing. I've tested and rested the outlet and it appears to be working fine. It's been a VERY disappointing experience so far. All I want to do is play the pinball machine I just shelled out $1200 for. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. Chris
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| Backglasses to Australia, etc. John Robertson 09:15:04 |
| | A number of our friends 'down under' have asked me over the past year
what the shipping cost to AU is for one of our backglasses, then when I
tell them (often $4-$500 for courier as they box is too big for the Post
Office) they never write back.... rather understandably!
Now, I have a professional crating company that can build a very sturdy
shipping box for glass for around $300 or so (say up to ten sheets) that
would meet with all international requirements (needs special stamps
these days!) then we would contact our ocean freight company (Panalpina)
to ship the crate via surface to AU for around $5 - $800US. I have to
get a quote from each supplier to fix that number better.
So, my proposal is this to our friends down under. Chat back and forth
here in RGP or in email to build up a large enough order that the
freight becomes less significant (Like $100/glass or less!). I will
discount an order of multiple sheets of glass from 10% - 25% depending
on the size of the order
Still the boxes we now are having made will be the best I can do to
protect single orders of backglass - we wrap the glass each way with
three layers of 1/2 inch bubble wrap and then put the 6 inch thick
object in two double wall cardboard shells that fit inside each other
forming a very sturdy box (I can stand on the side of one!) then
strapping the sucker with shipping straps. Short of punching through the
box with a forklift I think they are safe enough for both domestic and
international shipments. Outside dimensions are 31.75 X 30.75 X 6.1
inches - it can't be any larger and ship via International Express Post
to Europe or USA.
http://flippers.com/back4sal.html
John :-#)#
PS, I found a few more odds and ends: "High Hand", "El Dorado"
(flacking!), "Mini Baseball" since the last update in early June.
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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| | 3 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: Stern puts this music in TDK and it will rock Kevin L'Heureux 08:50:40 |
| | On 2008-07-05 21:07:41 -0700, derek <mcblackout@verizon.net> said:
The entire score is up on you tube here is on the songs. The music rocks Please stern put this in the game and don't go the route spidey went
I got the soundtrack last week when we did the press junket for the
movie. It's definitely trippy. Gary Oldman was telling me that he had
done voicework for the new TDK video game and I asked him if he did any
voices for the pin. He said no and he didn't even know about a pinball
coming out but he thought it was cool.
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| | 1 answer | Add comment |
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| Re: TFTC can't collect extra ball Dallas Overturf 07:53:58 |
| | Have you booted and done a reset to factory settings? (coin door must be
open) Could be it thinks it's in tournament mode or EBs are set to collect
points only.
HTH, Dallas...
--
Home Page: www.geocities.com/d_overturf/index.html
Newsgroups to reply to me me via email, please fix the email address
dallas.overturfNOSPAM@verizon.net
REMOVE NOSPAM from the reply address.
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<rokubungi@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:27a4571a-4fc9-4cb6-94ad-09d0c730a903@a1g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have a couple of problems with my tales from the crypt pinball it appears that everything is in working order (except for a weak DMD) but whenever I get the light extra ball on creature feature and then get a ball in the scoop it DOES light the collect extra ball light but I can't collect it. I've gone through the switch test and dropped a ball into the area above the spinner and it does register a switch. is there a second switch in that area? or is there perhaps a setting that needs changed another issue is the door prize video mode it only shows the door choices once and lets me collect one prize in some youtube videos it shows someone going through and collecting points untill a hanged man shows up behind a door. I've just replaced my game and display roms but the behavior has not changed. is there some other area where programming is kept?
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| WPC ASICs - why do all the ones for sale show a 1997 date code? Joseph A. 'Tony' Dziedzic 07:52:07 |
| | Interesting - Classic Arcades, Pinball Sales (Australia) on eBay, and Bay Area
Amusements are now selling WPC ASICs. All three show pictures of the ASIC
with a 1997 date code. Classic Arcades clearly points out the date code in
their auction and calls these NOS parts, while the others simply include a
picture of the chip (which admittedly could be a stock picture).
Did someone find a stash of these somewhere? Or are these the fabled
"re-manufactured" ones from TPF?
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
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