Sunday, 5 October 2008
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| Re: Nucore/Expo/Thanks Vegemite Nick 01:07:34 |
| | chuck wrote:
Just got back from Expo and really had a great time. I wanted to share these pictures with you. Larry DeMar, Cameron Silver, and Duncan Brown signed out machines after the chat. I really want to thank everyone for their incredible support. It was also a real please meeting a number of people from RGP for the first time. I would list names but there are way too many and I would definitely miss some. More later after sleep. p.s. Don't drink with Aussies. It's a losing battle =) You drinking with my mates - sucker! Glad you guys hooked up - who was there from here in your drinking group - Mark, Greg??
When do we get to hear - was the seminar recorded Chuck?
Cheers, Nick
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| Re: Want to buy 80's machines, what are your favorites? John P. Dayhuff 00:47:34 |
| | Banzai Run, Black Hole, Taxi, BK2K, Blackout, Big Guns.
-- John P. Dayhuff Battle Creek, MI. ph. 269-979-3836
Still looking for: Em. version Charlies Angels pinball machine "MarsNeedsWomen" <bowlingfordonuts@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:9eb5e0aa-ce08-4c56-8abb-274e419f1aca@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
I'm finding myself playing my 2 80's machines more than my 90's DMD's. I have Space Shuttle and Grand Lizard. My newer games are MM, NGG, WH20, T2, SM and LOTR What top 10 80's games would you recommend?
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Saturday, 4 October 2008
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| Tech: TAF Bridge rectifier Gregg 23:44:46 |
| | Hi all, how do you remove the heat sink that covers BR1 and BR2? Can I just reuse the heat sink or do I need a new one? How does it reattach? TOP 3 didn't cover this.
Thanks
-- Gregg in Baltimore
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| Team-EM - Re: Shuffle: Williams Delta Frame Control Unit Help John Robertson 23:39:54 |
| | pnb@jhilb.com wrote:
I've had a Williams Delta Shuffle Bowler I have been trying to get to work for a while. At the end of each game it would not recognize the end of the 10th frame. It's been years since I worked on it, I think that was the original problem. I could see the stepper motor had a pin on it that was supposed to trip a switch. It wasn't. So I removed the switch, went to radio shack and bought another. That was years ago. Now I cannot remember where how the thing mounted. I can see the pin its supposed to trip but I do not remember at what point. Anyone have pics of this or a similar stepper that I could check out? I have the manuals, and schematics. Doesn't tell me where or how the switch mounted. Jeff Hi Jeff,
The manual does not show this, but if you have a Williams Parts Manual of that period it should.
Probably better if you post a picture (give us a link, eh?) of the stepper as it is so we have a chance of seeing what is missing. There is normally a bent out (90 degrees) arm that holds a switch or three that open and close relative to an insulated bolt/pin sticking out (again at 90 degrees) from the gear wheel. Experiment by using the two plungers (step-up, & reset) to see how far the step unit goes.
The final step up usually has the teeth ground down so it can't go past that point. Is the pin lined up with the switch arm at this point?
John :-#)#
-- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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| Re: Roadshow power issues Lloyd Olson 23:38:02 |
| | Cover the basic reset issues. Power off, reseat game side transformer connectors and the ones going to the power driver board from the transformer. If problem persists, then check bridge rectifier 2 for broken traces or solder joints at the pads. If no breaks or anything bad at the pads, then replace bridge rectifier 2. LTG
<lee.james@spartan.ab.ca> wrote in message news:8743071b-bd53-4799-b018-edf50c2c4135@i24g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Had this game for awhile, no problems with it, it was in immaculate condition when I got it. Now however whenever you press the left flipper button the power turns off and back on again (obviously killing the game in progress). This is not intermittent it happens every time. Before I break out the soldering iron and start pouring over schematics I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to look. Thx, J.
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| tech help- wms Flash using led #89 Pete 22:38:13 |
| | I am swapping the 89 flasher bulbs with leds. I noticed that the warming voltage caused them to always be dimly lit- no problem, just pull one leg of the resistor. Now, I get one flasher, the right one, to work with an led but if I put an led in both neither one work. @ regular 89s work fine- I am thinking the originals are in series, the leds need to be parallel, so I should reverse the wires on one socket- does that sound right?
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| Re: TAF Bridge rectifier Lloyd Olson 22:23:05 |
| | Remove the board, on the solder side of the board there are two holes, two screws should be holding the heat sink to the two bridge rectifiers. Remove it, set aside. If you are removing one bridge rectifier, take it out now, then slide the new one in - but don't solder it down yet. Put heat sink compound on the heat sink and reattach it to the two bridge rectifiers. Fasten the screws down snug, but don't over tighten as to bend or twist the bridge rectifier legs. Then solder the loose bridge rectifier legs good, clip the ends sticking up off the circuit board and you are good to go.
If you are replacing both bridge rectifiers, I would do similar to above, but remove both of them, solder on down good and then do the above process to secure the other one. LTG
"Gregg" <ggiblin@REMOVEcomcast.net> wrote in message news:ggiblin-C801C9.12244004102008@news.giganews.com...
Hi all, how do you remove the heat sink that covers BR1 and BR2? Can I just reuse the heat sink or do I need a new one? How does it reattach? TOP 3 didn't cover this. Thanks -- Gregg in Baltimore
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| Looking for gold side rails.... Creek Pinball 22:17:44 |
| | Who sells gold side rails for IJ and WCS94?
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| Re: High Speed Weak Upper Flipper Lloyd Olson 21:28:55 |
| | I'd skip worrying about the coil for right now, and be sure the flipper moves freely, have a tiny bit of up and down play on it so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on anything. and the coil sleeve should be in good shape and not worn or cracked. And the plunger that moves inside the coil isn't mushroomed on the end and dragging or anything.
What I would learn about with your particular game is the flipper button points need to be clean and spotless, not burned. And the EOS points need to be very clean and not burned, and plenty of tension holding them closed to provide you the most flipper power. LTG
"Jeff Hildenbrandt" <pnb@jhilb.com> wrote in message news:Sbqdnc0DMYZmL3rVnZ2dnUVZ_uGdnZ2d@powerusenet.com...
I don't really know anything about coils. Looks like I will have to learn. I understand the cabinet buttons are tungsten contacts. My lower right flipper works great. Upper right is weak. Leads me to believe it's not the button, correct? That being the case, the upper right coil is foiled some how. It does work, it's just weak. What are my next steps? Jeff -- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.5 Beta 10 ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
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| High Speed - Poppers not popping Guest 21:16:13 |
| | High Speed
All of a sudden it's on the fritz. Sound doesn't come on until after a little while. This has happened before and I found it was a bad connection to the power board. I giggled the 15 pin connector to the power board and it sometimes comes back on. A bad wire, or connector maybe?
Here's my most concerning item now however.... I have no working poppers or sling solenoids? Just all of a sudden none work.
I have to figure the contacts to sense the ball are working. Just not popping the poppers or kicking the ball on the slings.
I see on the power board that there is something called solenoid power. Is that my issue? I am asking for help, please advise...
Jeff
-- --------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.5 Beta 10 Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet ------------------- ----- ---- -- -
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| Re: Tech....Help with my space invaders Lloyd Olson 21:03:14 |
| | Set of points stuck closed and overloading everything ? Check the pop bumper points first. LTG
"srmonte" <smonteer@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:2459d49f-0d8b-4f3b-af71-79618cddc3e4@a19g2000pra.googlegroups.com...
Hi, just got a new space invaders and the game boots and I get all the flashes on the mpu. The problem is when I turn the games on the left pop bumper coil triggers and pulls without releasing Heating it up very hot. Also none of the other coils will work. Any insight guys. Thanks Shaun
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| Re: Tech:JD crime scene kickout opto not working. Lloyd Olson 20:56:16 |
| | Correct voltage at the optos ? If so then suspect your new optos might be defective. And the optos in your game are part of the switch matrix. Don't rule out a broken wire at another switch shutting down the optos. LTG
<jiarossi@aol.com> wrote in message news:4c2cd330-9edf-47d5-a1b9-d0c8340c91a0@d31g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Replaced with new set still n/g.Where do i go from there?
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| Re: Crane machines for home use Lloyd Olson 20:48:37 |
| | Are you mechanically inclined ? They are usually pretty well built and reliable. If you should ever have any problems, you do throw some mechanical stuff into the mix. If you are good with your hands, go for it, would be a nice addition to your arcade. LTG
<dinotheo@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:5476836e-172b-4573-924f-4eca103d4628@u57g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Hi all, I am thinking of getting a crane machine for my arcade. I figured someone on here could pass some advice. Are these fairly reliable? Is there anything I should be aware of? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Dino
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| Re: Thanks Ed Cheung! Joseph A. 'Tony' Dziedzic 20:41:34 |
| | Me too! Much appreciated! Thanks, Ed!
Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic
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| Re: Free Thursday: Hubble Servicing Mission Stickers Kenbo 20:39:21 |
| | On Tue, 30 Sep 2008 06:57:05 -0700 (PDT), beaver <ed@edcheung.com> wrote:
I was going to post this at some point.. I was heading back to the Cape on Sunday when I was called into the control center at Goddard. After diagnosis and some tests it became clear that the science formatter on Side A has failed. So now some major decisions need to be made. Can we fly the rest of the mission (10 years) on just the redundant side? Do we hurriedly prepare the ground unit for flight? So I returned to the Cape to help out, and the stickers were mailed last night from the Cape Canaveral post office. Looks like our mission is postponed until next Spring 8-(. We need to pull our hardware out of the Shuttle and go back into the clean room here. Major work for everyone. After hearing that on the news I thought it would have a major impact on you. Pesky electronics. Sorry to hear that.
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| Re: working Gameplan MPU 2 Rick Furniss 20:14:15 |
| | Jim Francesangeli jvbuzzard@earthlink.net
Jim the man to contact for Gameplan boards & repairs. Located in Ohio.
"Rich R" <27pins@gmail.com> wrote in message news:6acb6b04-c1da-4d9e-a87b-f731495879d8@k30g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Anyone have a 100% Working Gameplan MPU 2 pcb? Shoot me an email with price.. Thanks, Rich Bethlehem, PA
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| Re: The York Show Update Pin Geek 20:05:51 |
| | Hey Eric, Sign me up for one of those 2 xl purple shirts. Actually I will take two! It's a Prince Purple Rain thing I'll pay you Tuesday
Eric, sign my flyer for me before you mail it, would you? I want to frame that sucker!
Guys, if you have no clue about York, I have been their unofficial photographer since 2000. That's six years. Man I am old!
I have put out dvds of the show for the past two years:
2004: http://home.comcast.net/~merit2002/yorkdvd_2004.htm
2005: http://host300.ipowerweb.com/~pingeekc/pingeek/yorkdvd_2005.htm
So for like $25 you can relive or see both shows for the first time and see what all the hullabuloo is about.
and check out my photo galleries and stories from York and many many other shows from the past years. You might even spot yourself! http://host300.ipowerweb.com/~pingeekc/shows.htm It's free out of my pocket to do this, but I want these shows to go on forever! THAT'S why I do it. Definately not for the money. Most definately not. -- Josh http://www.pingeek.com Get your pinball show dvds here: http://www.thepinballshow.com
<> wrote in message news:1155401438.812451.86980@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...> Hello Friends,> The White Rose Gameroom Show is fast approaching. Only 2 months away.> The Show is shaping up to be another packed house.>
Registration forms will be mailed next week!> I've already had numerous phone calls and emails asking for indoor> vendor space, and outdoor flea market space. Don't worry folks, you> are ahead of the game and your spaces are penciled in, I'm just waiting> for a few forms to arrive in the mail. To those who haven't received a> form, you will get your form in the mail soon, please fill it out and> send it to us.> -or- visit the page below to print the form.> www.theyorkshow.com/registration.html> The T-shirts are almost finished. Just the back side of the shirt to> finalize. The last couple years we have sold out of shirts, so this> time I'm making sure that doesn't happen again.> There will be two styles of shirts! Dark purple T-shirts, and Black> Polo style shirts. The polo style shirts will cost a little more and> be of a limited quantity. Until the T-shirt guy gets back to me on> prices for polos, I'm not sure how much more extra they will be. Check> our web site in a week or so to see the designs. There are 3 designs> on both shirts. A pocket logo, gold on the sleeve, and web site on the> back.> www.theyorkshow.com/giveaway.html> We will have a special 10th Anniversary presentation near the end of> the show at 5:30pm on Saturday.> Also, I will be bringing the Gottlieb pinball prototype Critical Mass.> I will answer your questions at the end of each day of the show. I> can't stop and answer questions while I'm running the show, hope you> understand.> www.theyorkshow.com/cm.html> Marlin and I would like to thank everyone for a great 2005 year, even> though it rained like crazy! We appreciate everyones support and kind> comments. Without people like yourselves taking time to bring your> games, or setting up inside or outside, the show would not exist. It's> hard to believe that this is our 10th show. We look forward to seeing> you in October!> Thanks for reading, Eric Selak> www.theyorkshow.com> (Not on our mailing list? Email me your mailing address)>
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| Re: Tech EM and WTB Gott Lieb? 20:01:56 |
| | Sof76's lockdown bar uses pins, not fins. PBR sells repros, if need be.
Jim
falconfixer86261@yahoo.com wrote:
I'm picking up a Spirit of 76 soon but it is missing the lockdown bar. Can anyone tell me if it uses the type with the pins or with the tabs? Also if someone has a serviceable one laying around I'd be interested in buying one. I don't care if it's all rusty underneath - I've done my fair share of elbow grease on these EM's. I'll also soon be in the market for a useable populated or unpopulated Klondike playfield. Thanks, Dave |
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| WTB: Funhouse kickout weldment John Wart 18:51:50 |
| | Not sure of the exact P/N after studying the manual
Need the weldment that the ball kicks out from after getting a ball in the manhole or shooting under the magic mirror. Above the right sling and flipper.
Weld is broken and kinda ugly on this game, trying to find either a clean used unbroken one, or even one that has been welded but is intact.
-- --john
CARGPB34 http://www.myhomegameroom.com
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| Re: Diner Plastics Cliffy 18:50:08 |
| | From what I'm hearing, almost but not quite yet! VERY soon though
mrpapajohn2@msn.com wrote:
Are these available yet? John -- Cliffy - CARGPB2 Home of the world's finest pinball protectors http://www.passionforpinball.com
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| Re: Huo Sopranos John in NC 18:01:44 |
| | Forgot, would consider Elvis too.
"John in NC" <john_ncNOSPAM@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:bEtFk.43454$bx1.26607@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
Interested in trade for like condition WOF, FG, Shrek, IJ, SM, PotC. ??? Located in Chapel Hill NC, can deliver within 100 miles. John in NC
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| Re: FS: Party Animal in Ohio (44839) Barnhart_pinball 17:58:19 |
| | BigChris <TheLeafEater@buckeye-express.com> wrote in news:226f2ad4-2b28- 40ad-a09e-1c7982bcc07e@q5g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
No pics yet, Game boots and plays with some issues. Needs gone through. Boards and displays are nice. Cab is in great shape structurally, but is faded. Programming keypad is there and working. $250 firm. Worth that in parts alone. I am a short detour from your route if you live in the East and are at Expo. Chris If you were closer, I'd be all over this...good price on this one!
Mitch
-- Looking for a Sharpshooter backglass in good shape.
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