Monday, 31 March 2008
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| Shrek question Michael Paris 05:44:45 |
| | Does anyone who may have played it know if they still have the fart multiball? I see it's changed from the Family guy instruction card to the Shrek instruction card. Thanks
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| Re: My Harbor Freight Pinball dolly Pm 05:42:47 |
| | How do you slide the cart under a game from the front with those wood pieces attached?
"Space-Bo" <ddabkowski@chartermi.net> wrote in message news:0d590156-0c42-4bf0-8ed5-a402fea860fa@a1g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I'm very pleased with my HF 500# cart. Very well made, all considered. The only down side is that the cylinder release lever is very close to the floor so rolling the cart over a door thresh hold may cause problems. Here's my modification. It's not so much a modification as add ons. For the handle, I made 45 degree adaptors out of copper pipe fittings: (1) 7/8" coupler (1) 7/8" pipe 1 1/2" lg (1) 7/8" 45 degree street elbow (1) 7/8"-1" reducer coupling Solder all together. The 7/8" end fits into the tube on the cart. I added some duct tape to make the fit a little snugger. The handle fits into the 1" end. I drilled through the 1" end for a simple machine screw pin. It takes about 30 seconds to assemble to the cart. No modification required on the the cart. With the handle at 45 degrees, the cart can easily be positioned near the machine center of the gravity. I use (2) 1x4's cross wise to support the machine from the side rails. I added two counter sunk machine screws as cheep dowel pins so as to position and lock the 1x4's on to holes drilled on the table. Yes, the boards have to be places in position after the cart is under the machine, however I find that it's not that big of a deal. Doug D.
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| Reminder: Pinball Chat Tonight Pinball Magic 05:40:19 |
| | Join us for friendly and helpful discussion on the Sunday Evening Pinball Chat.
Q: Where is the chat held at? A: http://www.pinballmagic.com/forum/chat/flashchat.php
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Here is a link to find out what time it is right now. Check the Chicago listing for current Central Time.
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| Re: Attention: Gtb. "Star Race" owners............. Steve Charland 05:33:52 |
| | Yep, 27" (X4). -S (CARGPB1)
Ned Ledod wrote:
Anyone know the correct leg length for this game? (I'll bet Steve Charland does.) Ned..................... |
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| Mystic Marvel woodrail FS (maybe) Marvin G 05:31:52 |
| | I'm considering selling this game but will part with it only if the right offer comes along. Now is not a great time to be selling games but it doesn't hurt to test the waters a little. Not interested in trades at all.
http://hasti.org/pictures/mm1.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm2.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm3.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm4.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm5.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm6.jpg http://hasti.org/pictures/mm7.jpg
This image on IPDB is actually my game:
http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1652&picno=5524&zoom=1
I cannot get pictures of the sides of the game now due to its location in the basement. But the left side is actually in better shape than the right side. The head is as nice as the bottom.
Everything is original on the game and there have been no touch ups at all. Reply to my email if you're interested or need additional pictures.
Marvin G. EM Pinball, And Nothing But! http://mysite.verizon.net/~woodrails
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| Re: WTB - NOS TAF plastic set and NOS TZ pf For Amusement Only 04:59:46 |
| | All I have left for NOS Addams plastics is a 29 piece set, missing the large "trainwreck" plastic around the standup target, and the "swamp" plastic, and possibly some others. I'll send you a picture if you wish.
Dave
captkirk wrote:
Have found most everything else for these two restorations. Please let me know if you have either of these, price & shipping details. Thanks. captkirk --
Dave Mercer For Amusement Only 943 Butte Pass Drive Fort Collins CO 80526 970-282-8282 970-223-2372 fax Paypal payments can be made to Paypal@foramusementonly.to Please visit our website for your pinball needs http://www.foramusementonly.to
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| Tech Help TAF Billy1963 04:43:32 |
| | Can anyone post or send me a picture of flipper assembly's and thing kick solenoid with wires attached? I had someone bring one over that had a lot unsoldered.
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| Re: WTB - Left sling plastic for Capcom PM Cliffy 02:02:20 |
| | Aye captain! I think I be havin' one forrr ya. Email me.
captkirk wrote:
Will take both but only need the left. captkirk -- Cliffy - CARGPB2 Home of the world's finest pinball protectors http://www.passionforpinball.com
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| OT: WTB: Pac-Man Control Panel Overlay Atari_2600 01:58:31 |
| | I figured I'd post here too OT, I see these by the bushel (read: cheap) at pin shows, who has them? I am looking for a quality control panel overlay for an upright pac-man machine. LMK what you have and what you want. Thanks. -Joshua
-- Remove NOSPAM from address when emailing a reply ( atariNOSPAM at twcny.rr.com )
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| Re: Gottlieb The Games: info needed Steve B. 01:57:08 |
| | System 80A
<5voltsrequired@gmail.com> wrote in message news:689a8b08-1322-493b-9cc8-0da41d034622@e10g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
I cannot for the life of me find this on the internet data base. Tried many different combos but to no avail. I basically need to know what system it is?? Sys 80 or what. Let me know. TIA....
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| WTB: STTNG Parts and others Billy1963 01:36:39 |
| | Hi,
I am looking to buy the through opto assemblies if anyone has them for sale. I also would like to buy a TZ translite.
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| Re: Price Check on Gottlieb Royal Flush Seymour-Shabow@Excite.Com 01:32:31 |
| | Reddog wrote:
I looked at a Royal Flush over the weekend and was hoping to get an opinion on the value of the machine. The backglass looked pretty good, but with some little spots of paint missing. The playfield was in very nice shape with some wear around some of the inserts. The cabinet looked dirty, but may clean up nice. The machine is complete and working 100%. Any opinions on the value would be appreciated, he is looking to sell it, but not positive about a price. The guy who fixed his machine told him it was worth about $1,500. Thanks in advance. It's not worth $1500..... the repair guy steered him wrong there.
-scott CARGPB#29
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| Anyone need a WCS lower cab? John Wart 01:06:01 |
| | I just switched my WCS cab out with a nicer one I picked up.
Cab is bare - just wood. Faded and 1 hole drilled for a hasp. No backbox. Solid.
I lack space, so I don't want to store it.
It is free. It is in Columbus, Indiana
-- --john
CARGPB34 http://www.myhomegameroom.com
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| Re: EM TECH: Williams Gulfstream Ball Count Problem Gott Lieb? 00:40:57 |
| | It could be the make break switch on the outhole relay or the switch that controls the ball index relay on the score motor. This switch is at cam 3 position B of the score motor.
The GI lamps not turning on until hitting the left flipper or pushing the start button, (if there's credits), is normal operation.
Jim CARGPB35
stlouispinball wrote:
I just picked up a 1973 Williams Gulfstream. Cleaned it up and it works great with one problem - ball count unit never counts down! Starts at five and will go up (game has add-a-ball features) but not down. Since I bought it, it was doing this intermittently (maybe once every 5-8 balls into the out hole would simply be shot back to the plunger lane) I noticed this but was not a big deal. Well now it is doing it on every single ball. A few details (I have the manual and schematic and rate myself a B- on repairs). When out hole switch is hit, the Out Hole relay is energized and the motor cycles with the ball being ejected to the plunger lane. All the switches on the Out Hole relay look good. The Ball Index Relay is not being energized. When I manually engage this relay while the Out Hole relay is being energized the ball unit will count down one ball. Looks like the switches on the Game Over Interlock relay (which is linked to the out hole relay) are OK. When you start a new game the unit counts down to 1 and then back up to 5 (you can see the Balls to Play lights on the back glass count down then up). Don't know if this is related at all but when you turn on the switch on the bottom of the playfield the game (GI) lights go on. I seem to remember when I first brought the game home that they would not go on until you pressed the left flipper switch. Thanks in advance for all the help from TEAM EM or any other citizen! I will post what happens with the advice. Greg |
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| Re: WTB: HUO low play machines. Will consider everything except brand new Stern titles. Donnie Barnes 00:38:18 |
| | On Sat, 29 Mar, JDix wrote:
Great, . . looks like we have Jeff Reynolds the sequel. Come on, that's not really fair. The guy is just looking for some nice machines. Cut him some slack. He certainly hasn't acted like *that*.
--Donnie
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Sunday, 30 March 2008
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| Re: Sealing a stainless steel coin door with triple thick- anybody
done this? Cliffy 23:26:00 |
| | Gottlieb doors weren't stainless steel. They are stamped mild steel with a 'flash' chrome plating. Yes you can sort of protect it with a clear urethane or lacquer but it will probably turn grayish. Steve Young still sells new Gottlieb chrome coin doors for EM's.
Karl M wrote:
I spent a considerable amount of time removing the rust from an older Gottlieb coin door (stainless steel). I've got the thing looking pretty good now, I'd like to preserve it if I can. I'm getting ready to seal the backglass with Triple Thick and was wondering if anybody has tried sealing stainless steel components (coin door, plunger plate etc...) to prevent rust and corrosion. Is this a bad idea? Thanks! -Karl M -- Cliffy - CARGPB2 Home of the world's finest pinball protectors http://www.passionforpinball.com
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| Re: Gottlieb Genesis & Bally Strange Science Ruleset Gott Lieb? 23:21:20 |
| | Genesis instruction cards are at Ken's Pinball Rebel site here: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm. The rules are to spell out the body parts by hitting their associated switches. The other way to spot letters are via the drop targets and a full stroke of the vari-target. Both of these features are operator adjustable, depending how much you want the game to cough up, (spot one letter for every body part or just one letter for one body part for the drops, and I can't remember the different adjustments for the vari-target). Once all of the body parts are spelled out, you have to hit the vari-target with a full stroke to "reveal" the under PF figurine. Multiball is achieved by completing one body part, and locking the ball in whichever ramp is flashing. BTW, Genesis has the best use of a vari-target out of any other GTB, IMO. It's not intrusive to the play of the PF, because it's nestled in an area that's "out of the way". Plus, it plays a very important part in spot letters much more quickly. It's a great game, IMHO!
Even though it isn't as good of a game, Cliffy will have to help out with Strange Science. That's his baby.
Jim CARGPB35
EvilOompaLoompa wrote:
Hello all, The subject title says it all. IPDB doesn't have a ruleset or instruction sheet available for either Gottlieb's Genesis or Bally's Strange Science. I would appreciate it if someone could outline the rules or better yet, direct me to a link for the instructions or printable game rules. Thank You, E. |
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| Choice between NF, W?D and PZ? John 22:56:51 |
| | If you had a choice between a NF, W?D and PZ, which would you choose.
I have a WCS94, JP and NBAFB and have enjoyed HS, SoF when I owned them if that gives you an idea of my tastes. I have a T2 but tired of it quickly.
The W?D seems like a really fun and different game (just tried it in VP) whereas PZ and NF would likely be a hit with my kids and easier to resell. The NF seems wicked fast (never played one). The PZ sounds fun but would I tire of the loud theme quickly?
Thoughts?
Thanks, John
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| Gottlieb kicking target cover, how to remove Schukei 22:14:25 |
| | http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/jj122/schukei_bucket/?action=view¤t=hh033.jpg
What is the best way to remove the kicking target cover to clean?
Thanks in advance
Steve Schukei
CARGPB 24
Other than brute force
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com
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| Re: Tech: Bally 1978 HG Ground problem. Seymour-Shabow@Excite.Com 22:03:46 |
| | Pin Snob wrote:
Anyone? Did you verify the wire colors yet? I've plugged the connector in upside down by mistake before and luckily it didn't damage the machine.
Time to start over in the testing sequence, get your rectifier board working first, then see if anything else burnt up. I always fix that board first in a system anyway, otherwise you might have garbage in=garbage out furthur up the boardset.
Systematic testing as always at marvin3m.com/fix
-scott CARGPB#29
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| Re: Gorgar GOR problems Seymour-Shabow@Excite.Com 22:00:37 |
| | rmikesell wrote:
I have two problems that I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. I have everything working on the machine, but when you knock all the GOR down, GOR doesn't light,nor will they ever pop back up till you loose the ball. I also have a problem with the outhole on the extra ball. The kicker works fine, but none of the lights or extra ball ever light up or count. I know there is a GORGAR expert out there that could point me in the right direction. I just hope he reads this thread. Between my GG and BH, I am a seem to be very busy pin man.... Read marvin3m.com in the system3-7 section on drop target problems - you're describing a CLASSIC symptom of the series "all complete" switch not working because of worn horseshoe contacts, worn mini circuit boards on the drop bank, or both. If you didn't know there are 2 switches on the drops - one for the "target is dropping NOW" switch - for scoring an individual targets, and one for "all the targets are down" circuit.... which will trigger the reset. The programmers didn't have to do it this way, but I think they did for possibly a couple reasons: Didn't want switches "closed" in the matrix all the time which might cause problems reading others, or there was not enough memory to 'remember' that target already dropped.
Follow the marvin guide and you'll be fine. I prototyped a solution that replaces the circuit with microswitches scavenged from a later WMS unit, wiring these into the reset circuit, and using the original boards for the drop circuit. Working great on my Tri Zone.
-scott CARGPB#29
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| Re: tech: stern nine ball Gott Lieb? 21:56:57 |
| | Check the gap on your outhole switch. If that's not it, put the game in switch test with all of the drops up. Is anything showing besides "0"?
Jim CARGPB35
TheChurchoftheSilverBall wrote:
hi. i have a stern nineball. The machine boots and seems to run fine. however, it will on occasion rapidly reset all the drop target banks. Once it starts, you have to power cycle it to get out of it. i have never seen this kind of behaviour where all three banks reset rapidly. Where to check first? It has a brand new Alltek board in it. The board was tested in a powerplay and worked fine. obviously the configurations may be completely different, so the problem may not show in the powerplay. Being self-contained, i cannot try other rom revisions with the alltek. so is it the game, the rom revision, or the board? i know there were 60+ rom revisions and some had problems. could this be a known issue? Any suggestions or comments welcomed. thanks mike |
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| Re: FS: USED Plug-N-Play display used in dozens of pins Seymour-Shabow@Excite.Com 21:52:46 |
| | teekee wrote:
$75.00 delivered in the US. I have a used but fully working display that came from a Theatre of Magic. This works in dozens of machines listed below. Working and in great shape. This is the most common Plug-N-Play complete module replacement for Williams/Bally (reference #5901-12784-00), Stern/Sega/Data East (reference #520-5052-00), Gottlieb, Alvin G and Capcom machines. No soldering is required and installation takes only minutes. Yeah, but is it from a HUO game???? I only buy DMD's from HUO games.
;)
-scott CARGPB#29
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